andy’s repairs: cr7 control motor
andy’s repairs: cr7 control motor
Fig. 1 - IT DOESN'T KNOW WHAT TO DO! This photo shows typical "confused" behavior, indicating a problem with the control motor mechanism. This CR-7 is literally trying to do everything at once.
Fig. 2 - SANKYO TRANSPORT, SEEN FROM ABOVE. The two areas of interest are indicated by the arrows.
Fig. 3 - DISCONNECTING THE TRANSPORT. To service the control motor and leaf switches, the entire tape transport assembly must be removed. The first step is to unplug all connectors leading to the tape transport. In the case of this CR-7, these two connectors must be unplugged, and then...
Fig. 4 - ANOTHER DISCONNECTION. In the case of the CR-7, this connector, which leads to the deck's playback azimuth motor circuit, must also be unplugged. (NOTE: The two connectors that were shown in Fig. 3 are located just beyond the top border
of this photo.)
Fig. 5 - REMOVING THE TRANSPORT. After cutting any other wire ties that might restrict movement, it is now time to remove the actual tape transport. Start by removing this screw on the top...
Fig. 6 - REMOVING THE TRANSPORT. (cont'd) ...And then remove these two screws on the bottom of the transport. Try not to disturb the delicate wires here!
Fig. 7 - THE TRANSPORT IS REMOVED. After removing any remaining front pieces that may block the way, the transport is pulled straight out of the front.
Fig. 8 - BE CAREFUL, BE GENTLE. SLOWLY remove transport whilst grasping top of frame.
Fig. 9 - REMOVING THE CONTROL MOTOR ASSEMBLY. (This view shows the rear of the transport assembly.) On the CR-7, removing exactly five screws frees the entire control motor assembly. Here are the first three screws. Screw #3 is accessed
through a hole in the circuit board that is mounted on the back of the transport assembly.
Fig. 10 - ACCESSING THE INNER CASSETTE CAVITY. I guess I lied when I said that you must remove five screws to free the control motor. One of the screws is hidden behind this wall, so you must remove the two small screws indicated in
this photo and remove this black metal cassette well cover in order to access that screw. So it's a total of SEVEN screws. BE SURE NOT TO LOSE THESE TINY SCREWS!
Fig. 11 - AFTER THIS, JUST ONE MORE TO GO... Once the cover for the inner cassette cavity has been removed, the small screw that retains the white control motor cam gears can be accessed and removed.
Fig. 12 - THE FINAL SCREW. Unfortunately, I don't have a good photo showing the location of this particular screw, but hopefully this illustration will be clear enough. (This photo shows the transport still installed in the deck.) The screw, whose position is indicated by the dotted yellow drawing, is a long brassy metal screw that holds the leaf switches onto the control motor assembly. This screw is visible at the front of the transport on the right side.
Fig. 13 - THE CONTROL MOTOR IS FREED. Once the screw that attaches the leaf switches to the control motor assembly is removed, the control motor can easily be lifted out of the transport.
Fig. 14 - CLEANING THE LEAF SWITCHES. GENTLY squeeze the leaf switches together whilst scrubbing in between with stiff paper soaked in DeOxit.
FIg. 15 - NICE AND CLEAN. Since the leaf switches are also quite exposed at this stage, it is very easy to clean them. These switches have now had a THOROUGH scrubbing and are ready for duty again.
Fig. 16 - TIME FOR SOME EXERCISE. Sometimes the control motor's internal contacts can be improved by running the motor thoroughly. For powering the motor, a variable DC power supply is recommended, but if one of those is not available, a 9-volt battery can be substituted. Be sure to flip the polarity and run the motor in both directions. Run the motor for at least 20 to 30 minutes.
Fig. 17 - A CRUCIAL STEP. This is one of the most important steps in the entire process. Before, during, and after the control motor is exercised, spray DeOxit contact cleaner into these four small slots on the back of the motor. These slots lead directly to the motor's internal electrical contacts.
Fig. 18 - A VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL. When the re-assembled control motor and leaf switches are re-installed into the deck, watch out for the small metal lever that is highlighted in the photo. Note that there are THREE black leaf switches but FOUR cam wheels. The fourth cam wheel should engage with this small metal lever. WHEN THE CONTROL MOTOR AND LEAF SWITCHES ARE SLID BACK INTO PLACE, DO NOT ALLOW THE METAL LEVER TO SLIDE DOWN BEHIND THE WHITE PLASTIC CAMS. MAKE SURE THE METAL LEVER RESTS ON THE FOURTH CAM.
Fig. 19 - CONTROL IS RESTORED. Once the deck has been re-assembled, verify that all of the tape functions (PLAY, FF, RW, PAUSE) work consistently. Then load the deck with an old cassette and test all of the tape functions again.
The following procedure was performed during the restoration of a non-working Nakamichi CR-7.
The CR-7 had been hit with a power surge, and several power supply components were damaged. Once the damaged components had been replaced, I noticed that the deck would sometimes become "confused" and the tape transport buttons would stop working.
This is a classic sign of a control motor problem, and it is especially common on cassette decks with a tape transport made by Sankyo. The Nakamichi CR-7 has a Sankyo tape transport. Other Nakamichi decks that have the Sankyo transport are the entire CR series, the entire BX series, the MR series, and the RX-202.
Please read the DISCLAIMER before attempting any repairs on your deck. If you have any questions, I can be reached at this e-mail address: eadgbe123 at comcast dot net
BEST OF LUCK, AND HAPPY LISTENING! ....ANDY
Thanks for looking !
THANK YOU FOR VISITING MY NAKAMICHI SITE:
PLEASE CONTINUE TO SUPPORT THIS WEB PAGES,
BY CLICKING THE LINKS ABOVE. THANKS!
I’M NOT ASKING FOR YOU MONEY, I’M ASKING FOR YOU CLICKS!
Remember, one click get’s you to google, and then the click afterward is the one that counts!